Saturday, December 27, 2008

Letters from Egypt: Holiday Blues

I began writing what my first Christmas overseas was like and got immediately disheartened. So I stopped. Although I did save the paragraph I wrote on Christmas Eve in order to show the before and after effect.

Wednesday, December 24

This isn’t my first Christmas alone, but it is my first Christmas overseas. I suppose the main reason I have a touch of holiday blues is simple: it doesn’t feel like Christmas. I’m not going to look at Christmas lights strung up throughout the neighborhood; I’m not going to the mall hearing holiday tunes; or window shopping with all the decorations. I didn’t realize Christmas was this week until, oh yeah, a few days ago.

It’s Christmas Eve and I’m in my office trying to get into the spirit. Sherif has just called me to ask what I was doing for the holiday, and he could immediately tell I was down. We got off the phone and he said, “Don’t worry, it’s going to get better.” As soon as I hung up, I just started crying. I’m still crying.

Saturday, December 27

While Christmas Eve felt like my whole Christmas was shot, it turned out to be a very pleasant one. I went to a couple of holiday parties and I finally got to hear some good Christmas tunes. I feel like I need a break from Cairo. I like certain things here, my friends, job, etc. but sometimes I feel so worn down. I try to pick up as much Arabic as I can, and even though nine times out of 10, I butcher it beyond belief, people are still appreciative that I’m trying.

When the women all in black try to sell me travel-size tissue, I now respond, “Ana mich mez kuma.” It means that I don’t have a cold. It’s actually quite humorous and everyone I’ve said it to thus far has gotten a chuckle out of it. Expats in Cairo, you should try it!

I’m worn down because my frustrations are getting the best of me. I’m going to say this now and if you have something negative in response, that’s fine. However, I didn’t start this blog in order to be weary of the things I write. I wanted to write my experience. Don’t take it as a direct attack on you or your culture.

I don’t know how things are going to change next year, and I’m really trying to get my head all cleared out to start 2009 on a positive note. What I will say is this: I once read an article in the New York Times, beautifully written and very descriptive on story tellers in Morocco (Keeping a Moroccan Tradition Alive, One Tale at a Time). From then on, Morocco became top on my list of places to visit. Then when I moved here, going to Morocco became more of a realistic possibility. However, at this time in my life I have no desire to ever go to another Arab country. This is how I feel right now, and who’s to say how I will feel in another six months. Like I’ve said before, there are good days and bad days, and well, “Life ain’t always beautiful, but it’s a beautiful ride.”

Eat of the Week:



15 Talaat Harb St.

2 392 2751

Tradition Egyptian cuisine at very reasonable prices. It is located in Downtown Cairo. The unique thing about it is that the restaurant caters to vegetarians, but let’s not kid ourselves – I’m anything but a vegetarian (and it provides beer and wine)! You walk in and find funny-looking tree-type tables, he

aring pigeons from nearby cages and the best part: the restaurant serves alcohol. I can’t remember the names of everything I liked, but I will tell you that the chicken liver is very tasty! I was not too impressed with the chicken kabab and if you get it, make sure you have a sauce of some sort to dip it into. For starters, definitely get the lentil soup. It isn’t brothy, but instead creamy. Squeeze the lemon, add a little salt and pepper and hmmm hmmm good!


  1. Hi Ann,
    Thank God that you are not "mez kuma" lol.

    It's ok to need a break from Cairo, I lived the first half of my life in the States, when I came back to Cairo I really was having a hard time coping here, and from what I've read I think that you're doing a better job then I was.

    Cheer up, and start the new year with a smile, because a first impression lasts the whole year ;)

  2. You are brave just to move to a place with such a reputation for the harassment of women! How can the world be cured of this social cancer?